115 Allen St. btwn Delancey & Rivington
(212) 253-5400
http://www.allenanddelancey.net/
The short distance between the subway and finding the place was sketchy, to say the least. I've slummed it at my share of Lower East Side locales and typically dig the vibe, but these streets were somehow different. With much relief, we beat the odds and arrived safely.
Despite what was going on right outside the door, as soon as you entered, the setting was elegant and thoughtfully decorated. I especially liked the main dining room that was tastefully draped with plush red velvet. What I didn't realize at the time, those details would turn out to be the highlight of the experience for me (with the exception of my lovely company, of course!).
To wet the palate, they served bacon bread. The immediate reaction is complete sensory overload for your nose. I like bacon, but the invasive smell made me want to vomit! I was thrilled once the pungency finally escaped our table. Just as my nausea began to settle, without fail, another surrounding table would receive their bacon bread and the aroma would again waft through the entire restaurant. Despite my feelings of sickness, I was mildly intrigued. Really the bizarre creation tasted exactly as it sounds---pretty nasty.
The menu was an easy one to choose from. Call me boring, but I wouldn't dare try smoked ham knuckle or ravioli of sweetbreads. I played it safe with the Dorade, even though I didn't really have the slightest clue what type of fish Dorade was. Once I peeled away the substantial layer of skin, I was a fan. The fish was first-rate, but the accompaniments of onion marjoram stew and golden eggplant puree were not.
I'm glad we decided to venture for dessert, but the execution didn't quite live up to the menu appeal. We shared the sweet cream french toast with oatmeal ice cream and caramelized bananas...and bacon-infused caramel sauce? What? More bacon? You've got to be kidding me! The oatmeal ice cream was a success and paired well with the banana, but the "french toast" itself was a dry block and this place really has to get over the bacon obsession.
Allen & Delancey leaves me the most torn about a "go or no go" decision yet. Ultimately, what broke me? My big mouth new friend, Jared, told the manager about my blog. The manager asks me, "So, what is it?" I smiled and said "GO!". Now, I feel the need to stick to my word.
Go or No Go? Go
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