21 Club

Midtown West
21 W. 52nd St. btwn 5th & 6th Ave.
(212) 582-7200
http://www.21club.com/web/onyc/onyc_a2a_home.jsp

Ahhh...let the gates to heaven open. I have officially experienced the Almighty 21 Club and lived to tell the story. First concocted as an underground speakeasy in the twenties, the 21 Club is one of New York's most historical dining establishments many years later. Today, the clientele is far from the lawbreaking, danger seekers from back in the glory days. The more likely hangout for these stuffed shirts is their local country club.

I can't help but comment on the unusual decor of randomness. Statues of horseracing jockeys on the outside and trinkets hanging from the ceiling on the inside look more like a jumbled mess than anything else. Apparently, the regulars feel at home with this paraphanelia while the once-in-a-lifetimers don't seem to get the joke.


Does that look like a $31 salad to you? I had to know what a $31 Cobb salad tasted like. Answer: it tasted like most other $14 Cobb salads. Although nothing was offensive about the meal, one would think the 21 Club could get a hold of a non-bruised avocado. Perhaps the blemish is a minor detail, but would Miss America shine a spotlight on a pimple in the center of her face? Don't worry, the other black spots are olives, not bugs. Black olives were not a terrible addition, but again quite peculiar. I guess one of the old timers liked that back in the 20's, also.


The dessert was able to redeem them slightly. Pleasing me when given cheesecake mounted on a shortbread cookie and covered in raspberry sauce is not difficult. This treat was more irresistible. I must have sworn 5 times that I was taking my last bite.

Stay with me for a second on my final conclusion. Hopefully my thought process will make some sense. My true opinion is 21 Club is a "No Go." However, I know realistically if I were to read some "Go or No Go" blog which told me No Go (even if I truly respected the opinion of the writer), I would still want to go to 21 Club. I think at some point, everyone feels the need to conquer their curiousity. So go ahead, get it out of your system, and realize the Almighty 21 Club is not the bee's knees.

Go or No Go? Go

Brasserie Ruhlmann

Rockefeller Center
45 Rockefeller Plaza
(212) 974-2020
http://www.brasserieruhlmann.com

Located smack-dab in the center of tourist hell, Brasserie Ruhlmann should be the ultimate trap for out-of-towners. I am sure a fair share of foreigners have accidentally stumbled into Ruhlmann on their parade of the rink, the Today Show studio, and Radio City; however, the touch of genius from Executive Chef, Laurent Touroncel, happens to make this place much more.

To give you an idea, my father once told me about a market in Paris that opens at four in the morning. One particular stall offers onion soup (they don't call it "French" in France) to the merchants selling their produce. This soup is legend to be the best of its kind in the world. Trust me, I don't get up early for much, but for years, the 4 AM French Onion Soup was on my lifetime "bucket list." Since discovering Brasserie Ruhlmann, this event has been scratched off my to-dos. To me, nothing can beat Ruhlmann's Onion Soup Gratinee (gratinee being the best part).



Truly, everything I've had on the menu is good. Even the standard Salad "Ruhlmann" is jazzed up with a memorable oregano dressing. Also at lunch, the pesto chicken sandwich is incredible. Brasserie Ruhlmann could go head-to-head with many of the authentic, dime-a-dozen Parisian eateries.

I do warn you of the obnoxious service. I guess they've gotta have it to be truly French, right? Look past the snooty hosts and constant upselling attempts, and you'll enjoy your visit. If the day ever comes, check out Brasserie Ruhlmann once the weather gets nice. They offer lots of outdoor seating--an ideal spot for people watching under a shaded canopy. After all, you'll need some shade, because you won't be able to resist the onion soup, even in the summer months.

Go or No Go? Go

The Best News Ever!

Name: Not sure yet (Pinch & S'mac)
474 Columbus Ave. @ 83rd St.
(646) 438-9494

Honestly, if today was anywhere around April Fools, I would question whether The New York Times was yanking my chain. I just read the greatest news of all time that Pinch (Pizza by the Inch) and S'mac have joined forces under one roof. Truthfully, my living room would be a far more ideal location than the old Colombus Bakery on the UWS, but this combo is undoubtedly worth the crosstown hike.

What makes this announcement even more special was last fall's sudden closing of Pinch's Gramercy Park shop. While I am slightly disappointed this arrangement took place behind my back, I now know where I'll be celebrating my birthday this weekend!

Go or No Go? Go

Aquagrill

SoHo
210 Spring St. @ Sixth Ave.
(212) 274-0505
http://www.aquagrill.com

After desperately roaming the narrow streets of SoHo for a place to eat lunch (Blue Ribbon, Raoul's, Fiamma, the list goes on), we stumbled into the only one with lights on, Aquagrill. Apparently, restaurant owners do not let customers dictate their schedules in SoHo. To my satisfaction, the semi-accident was a winner in the end.

For starters, the choice of oysters will really blow your mind. We're talking dozens! In fact, so many they require a separate menu. Not my cup of tea for my first meal of the day, but I'd imagine you could find some special ones, if oysters float your boat.

The bread options were notably fantastic. So warm and oniony, the little piece of heaven literally melted in my mouth. Jalapeno cornbread, although not a personal favorite, was a crowd pleaser. Even Regan, who's usually a stickler with the healthy stuff, did not hesitate with a second helping.

Under normal circumstances, I would warn you to steer clear of the New England clam chowder. Thankfully, the option was not a permanent fixture on the menu. Just in case, do not order! The base was pure cream and excessive SALT. I managed to pick out the clams one by one, which still had intense residual saltiness. Potato and clam ratios are always a make or break determinant for New England clam chowder. In that test, Aquagrill scored high. The potatoes were barely noticeable while the clams were enough to fill the sea. Just the way I like it, but the salt was entirely too much of a distraction and destroyed any potential the soup had.

For my main course, I indulged with a decadent lobster salad. The seafood was accompanied with other all-star ingredients including: avocado, beets, grapefruit, and a champagne vinaigrette. All the components blended harmoniously. At a "market price" of $26, I felt a tinge of pain to pay that for a salad. In reality, the cost was actually fair given the amount of lobster meat. I was easily served an entire lobster worth of meat (and not just the claws). The vinaigrette was overly thick but tasty nonetheless.


Stop by Aquagrill for an enjoyable break during a day of shopping in SoHo. Its seafood fare will be light enough to allow you to continue to try things on, even after the lunch. Hopefully, they won't be serving the New England clam chowder.

Go or No Go? Go

'wichcraft

Rockefeller Concourse (right by the rink)
http://www.wichcraftnyc.com/homepage/index.html

What could be more exciting than a new lunch spot opening in Rockefeller Center? Given the recent publicity of the rats in the Time Inc. cafeteria and the otherwise mediocre, at best, selection in the area, Collicchio's decision to expand his empire to our neighborhood could only be good news (or so I thought). I can think of few Manhattan locations as genius as Rockefeller for a much-needed, well-executed place to grab a quick lunch. All signs are pointing to $$$.

Despite the limited options, I do have my local favorites for indulgent, overpriced Midtown lunches. I already have my fancy salad spot, Just Salad. I technically prefer Chop't, but my office is a tad too far to make the trip on a regular basis. I am also quite committed to Devon & Blakely for soup, particularly the Turkey Chili. Thus, the only void left to fill is a sandwich place.

This picture actually gives the sandwich way too much credit...


Today, on my hopeful yet second misfortune at 'wichcraft, I ordered the grilled fontina with black trumpet mushrooms and white truffle fondue. Ten bucks, two bites, and five minutes later, I was hungry again! Not to mention, the overall taste was short of enjoyment. I am still kicking myself for leaving my camera behind for 'wich #1 (ham and cheddar with pear and mustard on cranberry-pecan bread). Insert pure black picture here. So much for looking forward to the cranberry-pecan bread.

One critical observation I noticed was, where were the snacks? Not only did the sandwiches leave room for more, but superfluous add-ons are key to this sort of upscale eatery where customers are willing to blow their cash on the extras. I once heard a ridiculous statistic about how much grocery stores make from the nonsense they strategically position by the registers. I'd like to have seen a variety of potato chips from an innovative brand or some unheard-of flavored popcorn perhaps. At the very least, they need fruit!

Don't get me wrong, I still have a non-sexual crush on Tom Collicchio, but Tom, 'wichcraft needs some work. On a positive note, I will say, I like that the sandwiches are not pre-made. That way, you are able to remove ingredients you don't want. Given the quirkiness of the menu, substitutions are a must. Where 'wichcraft needs work is consistency. On a Tuesday in Rockefeller, I am served an overdone disaster. If I go to a different location on another day, the story may not be the same. The even bigger problem, however, is the products are strange and not that tasty.

Go or No Go? No Go